Cosmetics & Persnoal Cares, Flavor & Fragrance Industry

How to create Lily of the valley fragrance?

How to create Lily of the valley fragrance?

By: FOREVEREST

  1. What does Lily of the valley smell like?

Floral notes play important role in fragrances for daily chemicals. Lily of the valley, as well as rose, jasmine, Neroli and tuberose, is a widely-used scent. As a member of Liliaceae, it possesses delicate and fresh notes. Lily can interact with various notes like clear, sweet, fresh, delicate, making fragrance interlocking, without break: the rosewood and honey-sweet notes of Lily bring fresh note to rose sweet note naturally. Its body note, Calyx, honey-sweet and jasmine notes transit rose sweet note to jasmine and Neroli notes smoothly. Clear and dynamic like water, Lily of the valley can also deliver a morning-dew-like, pure and delicate atmosphere. It can interact not only with floral notes naturally, but also smoothly with many non-floral notes. Overall, in terms of note transition, note harmony and note expression, Lily of the valley floral note is unique and irreplaceable for the creation of fragrance for daily chemicals.

  1. How many notes does Lily of the valley have?

Lily of the valley flower, also called as Muguet, has double floral notes, fresh (both clear and turbid) and delicate (both sweet and light). It is clear and fresh like jasmine, sweet like acacia farnesiana and iris. The main part of Lily is cream sweet and honey-sweet notes, based on fresh notes. Analysis of notes of Lily as follows:

Note type Note Representative ingredient CAS
Fresh, green plum Cyclamen aldehyde 103-95-7
hydroxycitronellal 107-75-5
Lilial 80-54-6
Lyral 31906-04-4
lily propanol 103694-68-4
dimethyl benzyl carbinol 100-86-7
p-Anisaldehyde 123-11-5
Styralyl acetate 93-92-5
Terpineol 8000-41-7
Terpinyl acetate 80-26-2
rose wood Linalool 78-70-6
Dihydromyrcenol 53219-21-9
freesia heptanol 13254-34-7
Daidai leaf oil
michelia aiba leaf oil
Petitgrain Oil 8014-17-3
jasmine Benzyl acetate 140-11-4
alpha-Hexylcinnamaldehyde 101-86-0
JasMonyl 1322-17-4
Methyl dihydrojasmonate 24851-98-7
Ylang Ylang Oil 8006-81-3
Aglaia odorata flower oil
Jasmine, Jasminum grandiflorum, ext. 84776-64-7
Calyx Phenethyl alcohol 60-12-8
Phenylacetaldehyde 122-78-1
phenyl acetaldehyde dimethyl acetal 101-48-4
leaf Leaf alcohol 928-96-1
methyl heptine carbonate 111-12-6
methyl octine carbonate 111-80-8
Sweet cream sweet Phenethyl cinnamate 103-53-7
Methyl cinnamate 103-26-4
linalyl cinnamate 78-37-5
Benzyl cinnamate 103-41-3
Cinnamyl alcohol 104-54-1
3-phenyl propionaldehyde 104-53-0
tolu balsam 9000-64-0
siam benzoin resinoid 9000-72-0
rose honey sweet ethyl linalool 10339-55-6
N-methyl ionone 1335-46-2
Geraniol 106-24-1
(E,E)-farnesol 106-28-5
Orris oil 8002-73-1
Citronellyl acetate 150-84-5
Geranium oil 8000-46-2
spicy sweet Eugenol 97-53-0
Isoeugenol 97-54-1
bean sweet Vanillin 121-33-5
Piperonyl aldehyde 120-57-0
fruit sweet bergamot oil 8007-75-8
citronellyl nitrile 51566-62-2
Turbid Turbid Indole 120-72-9
Methyl anthranilate 134-20-3
p-Tolyl phenylacetate 101-94-0

 

  1. How to create Lily of the valley fragrance?

In the early days, Lily of the valley fragrance usually is based on hydroxycitronellal, jasmine, and rose note ingredients, composed with Linalool, terpineol, and N-methyl ionone. With the appearance of synthetic aroma chemicals like Lilial, many ingredients can be replaced. Lilial can partially replace hydroxycitronellal to reduce its use level, meanwhile, decrease the allergy which may be caused by aldols.

Based on the analysis result of notes of Lily of the valley, the thought for the creation of Lily of the valley fragrance is as below:

  • Top note: use leaf alcohol and methyl heptine carbonate to simulate leaf notes to bring the fresh scent of Liliy. Then add decyl aldehyde and styralyl acetate to reduce the harsh smell of methyl heptine carbonate.
  • Body lily note: hydroxycitronellal, Lilial and Lyral as a subject note, Cyclamen aldehyde, p-anisaldehyde and terpineol to present plum note, dimethyl benzyl carbinol to refine the rough of terpineol smell.
  • Jasmine note: use alpha-Hexylcinnamaldehyde and benzyl acetate to present.
  • Rosewood note: freesia heptanol, Linalool and Michelia alba leaf oil can bring tension to rosewood note, and link jasmine note with a subject lily note.
  • Calyx note: Phenethyl alcohol and phenyl acetaldehyde dimethyl acetal bring Calyx note, meanwhile transit fresh note to rose sweet note naturally.
  • Main sweet note: Ethyl Linalool, Geraniol, N-methyl ionone/(E,E)-farnesol and Geranium oil present rose honey sweet note, while Cinnamyl alcohol and Phenethyl Cinnamate bring cream sweet note. These ingredients transit fresh notes to sweet notes and make the sweet notes more thick and lasting.
  • Fruit sweet note: bergamot oil and citronellyl nitrile help the expression of lily scent and also link fresh note with a sweet note in another channel.
  • Bean sweet note: Vanillin and Piperonyl aldehyde bring bean sweet note to reinforce the cream sweet note.
  • Turbid note: Ylang Ylang Oil, Indole, Methyl anthranilate and p-Tolyl phenylacetate present turbid note and coordinate with Jasmine note.
  • Fixative agent: tolu balsam as a fixative agent, harmonious with a cream sweet note. The fixative agent should be able to fix the notes and consist with lily note.
  • In the last step, add a certain amount of Jasmine oil and rose oxide to express the naturality and strength of note.
  1. How is Lily fragrance used in daily chemicals and other fragrances?

Some examples:

  • Body powder: Add 0.5% Lily fragrance to body powder made from talcum powder and zinc oxide.
  • Toner: Add 0.01% Lily fragrance and two times of solubilizer to serum composed of 1,3-butanediol, Acetyl hexapeptide-8, Resveratrol and Ginkgo Biloba Extract.
  • Aromatherapy products: Burning Aromatherapy and Reed Diffuser are traditional  Aromatherapy products that widely use Lily fragrance. Nowadays Aromatherapy Machine is more popular. The essential oils used in the machine can be made from lily fragrance, DPG, lemon oil, sweet orange oil, geranium oil, phenoxyethanol and Zinc ricinoleate deodorant.
  • Personal care fragrances: Using lily fragrance to equally replace aldol, Lilial and Lyral can make fragrance note more thick and rich in Shampoo and shower gel;
  • Floral fragrances: Lily fragrance is coordinated and mellow in jasmine fragrance,

Lavender fragrance and etc. Especially when fragrance used in fine perfumes, it can mellow the harsh smell of ethanol.

  • Non-floral fragrances: The adding of Lily fragrance can make grass and wood fragrance odor more rich and coherent.