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Styling wax emulsions for hydrous formulations

Styling wax emulsions for hydrous formulations

Link: Styling wax emulsions for hydrous formulations | PCM February 2016
By: Martina Heldermann, KahlWax, Germany

While styling waxes are experiencing a growth in popularity, many consumers are looking for a more natural, matte finish to the styled hair.

Even with the surge in beard and moustache styling products in the men’s grooming market, a more natural look is preferred, and this look is best achieved using hydrous formulations.

Waxes are a class of natural compounds that are formable at room temperature. Typically, they are harder, less greasy, and more brittle than fats, and show extreme resistance to moisture, oxidation, and microbial degradation.

Small amounts of wax deposited on hair boost the performance of hair care and hair styling products. Dependent on their chemical composition, waxes can add gloss, reduce combing force and detangle, have anti-static properties, or protect the hair against breakage and environmental stress. Most hair conditioners or masks already contain waxy substances such as fatty alcohols but rarely just waxes, as their melting point can be fairly high or their performance is unknown. Waxes are mainly used for thickening oleogels or W/O emulsions but they have a very interesting activity on hair. As they do not attach firmly on the hair, they add softness but are still easy to remove and do not cause build-up.

In particular when waxes are used that are already pre-blended with an emulsifier, the washing off is especially trouble-free. Depending on the used wax type it can also provide slip and lubricity.

Others give more grip which can be necessary for a good manageability especially in preparation for an updo. Used in styling products, most waxes give a strong hold which is still remoldable as they do not form stiff films but flexible layers that cannot break easily.

Figure 1. Hair gel with 10% Kahlemulsion BE830 compared to a successful mass-market hair gel formula. © Personal Care Magazine

Figure 1. Hair gel with 10% Kahlemulsion BE830 compared to a successful mass-market hair gel formula. © Personal Care Magazine

CONSUMER NEED

The market requires more and more water-containing styling cream formulations, different from the traditional hair styling waxes and pomades that have been water-free. Besides lower formulation costs they also provide a more natural hold instead of a greasy pomade feel and can be loaded with fillers for a matte appearance. Also chewing gum like textures are popular again, but they should have a decent waxy and creamy feel instead of a super tacky sensation.

A possibility when formulating with one styling active in all different formulation types is a wax emulsion. These emulsions are low viscous, fine particle sized, and have a solid content of 35% to 40% depending on the version. Adding 5% to 10% of a wax emulsion to a styling formulation increases significantly its performance. In two different half-side studies the activity of a beeswax/carnauba wax emulsion was tested on hair.

Figure 2. Microscopic images of hair treated with a hair gel with 10% Kahlemulsion BE830 and a popular mass market hair stylying gel. © Personal Care Magazine

Figure 2. Microscopic images of hair treated with a hair gel with 10% Kahlemulsion BE830 and a popular mass market hair stylying gel. © Personal Care Magazine

TESTS

In the first conducted test a simple water-based hair gel formulation with 10% Kahlemulsion BE830 (INCI: Aqua, Cera Alba, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Polysorbate 80, Butylene Glycol, Sorbitan Oleate, Sorbic Acid) was compared to a very popular mass market hair gel formulation from the market. In a halfside study with 20 volunteers performed by a hair dresser the parameters texture, spreadability, tackiness, drying time, formability, washability, and water resistance were compared.

The simple hair gel with the wax emulsion had a perceivable superior spreadability and washability. Also the formability was better and the drying time shorter.

The formula with Kahlemulsion does not stick the hair concrete-like together or form inflexible, hard strands. It gives hold but the natural flexibility of the hair remains.

In a second study half-side study conducted by an independent test institute the same simple hair gel formulation but with 10% Kahlemulsion BE850 (INCI: Aqua, Cera Alba, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Alcohol, Pentylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Sebacate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate/Caprate) was compared to the same popular mass-market hair gel. The parameters: volume after hours, manageability, hold in dry hair, wet hair haptics, and wet combability were compared. The hair gel with the wax emulsion showed superior performance in hold and combability. The grip of wet hair and the volume after hours were better too. Figure 3 shows the rated difference.

Figure 3. Hair gel with 10% Kahlemulsion BE850 compared to a successful mass-market hair gel formula. © Personal Care Magazine

Figure 3. Hair gel with 10% Kahlemulsion BE850 compared to a successful mass-market hair gel formula. © Personal Care Magazine

Results and conclusion

In particular the result of improved wet combability indicates that wax emulsions work in rinse-off hair care products such as conditioners and masks too. They give a formulation a non-stick, natural touch with a rich consistency and a perfect softness. Furthermore thanks to their low viscosity they can be used for cold process as well which is important especially for gels or sprayable liquids. If used in hot process, Kahlemulsions are post-added during cooling. They are not sensitive to shear force as they have very small particles. Kahlemulsions have strong hold with outstanding accentuating and remolding properties due to their soft and flexible film forming.

The used emulsifier supports formulation stability and eases washing off. Formulations with Kahlemulsions are nontacky and get feather light, innovative textures. They are compatible with all typically used hair styling and conditioning ingredients but not combinable with alcohol at concentrations above 5%.

Formulation 1. Hair styling cream formulation.
This formulation is designed to give coarse hair a natural shine and moisturisation. It has a rich, creamy rheology with medium hold for accentuation of particular hair sections or longer hair.
Phase Ingredient INCI (EU) %
A Water Aqua ad 100
D-Panthenol Panthenol 0.50
dermofeel PA-3 Sodium Phytate, Aqua, Alcohol 0.10
B Arlacel 1652 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate 6.00
Lanette O3 Cetearyl Alcohol 3.00
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 20.00
CremerCOOR DO4 Decyl Oleate 3.00
C Vitamin F forte5 Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid 2.00
Kahlemulsion BE8506 Aqua, Cera Alba, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Alcohol, Pentylene Glycol Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Sebacate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate/Caprate 10.00
Tocopherol 0.05
Aqua,Sodium Hydroxide 0.20
Preservative/ Fragrance q.s.
Procedure: Click to read this full article.
Supplier: 1. Dr Straetmans 2. Croda 3. BASF 4. Cremer Oleo 5. CLR 6. KahlWax

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